Walking through the streets of Cartagena, one of the most recognizable sights is the palenqueras — Black women dressed in vibrant dresses and head wraps, carrying bowls of fruit and sweets on their heads. For many visitors, they are a symbol of the city’s colorful culture. But their presence also reflects a deeper and more complex history.

Many of these women come from San Basilio de Palenque, a community founded by Africans who escaped slavery centuries ago. The town, widely recognized as the first free Black settlement in the Americas, developed its own culture and language blending African dialects with Spanish and Portuguese influences.

Cartagena itself was once one of the largest ports for the transatlantic slave trade in the region, where more than a million Africans passed through over three centuries. Today, the palenqueras represent both that painful history and the resilience of the communities that survived it.

Despite generations of change, the people of Palenque have preserved their traditions, language, and identity. For many palenqueras, selling fruit in Cartagena is not just work — it is also a way of keeping their culture visible and alive.