BARRIO (Vogue) – For the last ten years, I’ve been in search of the perfect weekend paradise. My dream destination is hot during the New York winters, with a beautiful swimmable beach that’s walking distance from town. There are cute local restaurants, fun beach clubs, and chic boutique hotels. There’s no need to rent a car or rely on taxis.

Of course, many such places exist in the world. As a travel writer willing to scour the far corners of the globe in the quest for paradise, I have happily endured 40-hour travel days for the chance to swim in a remote seaside lagoon and dine on fresh seafood in a thatched-roof hut. But visiting the Philippines for a long weekend isn’t exactly feasible.

So, my perfect long weekend destination has to be a direct flight from New York City that’s under five hours. From there, it has to be an easy (as in, only one form of transportation—no car-to-puddle jumper-to-ferry) ride to the destination that takes two hours at the most. The Yucatán is one of my favorite places to visit, but due to the seaweed problem there, the “beautiful swimmable beaches” bit is not a guarantee. Other Caribbean locales I’ve visited have checked most—but never all—of the boxes. Until I visited Las Terrenas.

This dusty little town on the Samaná Peninsula in the Dominican Republic reminds me of what Tulum was like 15 years ago. It’s got a gritty charm, but it’s safe enough that you can go solo or with a group of girlfriends and feel comfortable. It’s cute, but not so cute that it’s unaffordable. The soft sandy beaches have calm turquoise water and the easily walkable town has chic (and cheap!) hotels and rentals, incredible restaurants, and low-key nightlife. Some travel writers vow to never share their favorite places for fear that they’ll become overrun by tourists, but this place is so good it doesn’t seem fair to keep it to myself.

My favorite part of Las Terrenas is that you’re guaranteed to have a good time just by showing up. It’s not a destination that takes weeks of planning or requires complicated logistics. If what you’re after is a beautiful beach with cool people and great food, you’ve come to the right place. Here’s how to make the most of your weekend.

What to Do

The best way to spend your time in Las Terrenas is beach club hopping. If you’re there for a long weekend, you can choose a different one for each day. Mosquito Beach Club on Playa Bonita has excellent food and a mellow party vibe with the hippest crowd in town. Playa Bonita also has a gentle surf break, so you can rent boards or take a lesson. On Playa Coson, a wide stretch of golden sand dotted with palm trees, Restaurant Luis is a hidden spot that’s worth the long walk (or bumpy taxi ride). The outdoor restaurant has a few tables and plastic chairs where you can spend the afternoon sipping on rum drinks out of a pineapple and dining on local grilled seafood, served with a side of rice and beans. Closest to town, Playa Ballena has the calmest water and a row of low-key beach clubs. You can hit them all on a one-day piña colada crawl, or stay for a week and visit a new one every day. I like the sun loungers at Eden the best.

If a vacation of beach club hopping isn’t quite adventurous enough for you, it’s easy to use Las Terrenas as a base for exploring the rest of the Samaná Peninsula. Arrange a horseback riding tour (your hotel or Airbnb can set one up for you) to visit El Limon waterfall, or venture out on a yacht charter with The Dive Academy to go snorkeling and visit undeveloped Playa Jackson.

Where to Eat

Las Terrenas is especially popular with European expats, so in addition to excellent Latin American cuisine at places like El Lugar and El Dieciocho, there are a couple of French and Italian spots worth visiting. Il Nido Cucina Italiana is tucked away on the outskirts of town in a palapa with red-and-white checked tablecloths and a menu of seafood pasta, while La Terasse will satisfy your craving for French.

Whatever you do, don’t miss the row of tiny restaurants between the cemetery and the beach (seriously, that’s the official address on Google Maps) including the excellent Zu Ceviche, lively Sunset Bar, and romantic Candelita.

After dinner, get a nightcap at Etno Beach Club, which sometimes turns into an outdoor dance party on the beach, or on the roof of multi-level El Mosquito Art Bar.

Where to Stay

Unlike Punta Cana, Las Terrenas isn’t a mini-metropolis of massive all-inclusive resorts. Instead, there are affordable family-run guesthouses and low-key boutique hotels, along with a shockingly stylish selection of rentals. Those traveling in a group should consider renting out thatched-roof bohemian Casa Poupone or the sleek and modern Casa Rosabaya.

For a party atmosphere and easy surf access, Mosquito Boutique Hotel is a simple and affordable option. To be close to the restaurants and beach clubs in town, Takuma Boutik Hotel or Mahona Boutique Hotel are both cheap and chic stays. If you’re just here to relax and sip drinks by the pool, Sublime Samana, a member of Small Luxury Hotels, is a quiet resort on a relatively undeveloped beach.