The Galápagos Islands, long celebrated for their pristine wildlife and strict conservation rules, are facing a new kind of challenge: Airbnb. Once accessible mainly to wealthy travelers on cruises, the islands have seen a boom in short-term rentals that is reshaping both tourism and local life.

In 2015, the archipelago counted just 56 Airbnb listings. By 2020, that number had jumped to 350. Today, there are more than 1,300 Airbnbs compared to only about 300 legal hotels. Some entire buildings have been converted into “ghost hotels,” offering rooms for as little as $8 a night. For hosts like Puerto Ayora’s self-proclaimed “queen of Airbnb,” it’s a way to keep tourism dollars in local hands and make the islands more accessible to budget travelers.

Visitors staying in Airbnbs tend to skip cruises and instead base themselves in Puerto Ayora, mixing self-guided trips with day tours. They hike to Tortuga Bay to see marine iguanas, explore lava tunnels, and snorkel off nearby islands before returning to the harborfront for cheap seafood dinners.

But the boom comes with consequences. Critics warn that many visitors don’t realize that 97% of the islands are protected, and fragile habitats are being disturbed. Sea lions are chased for selfies, birds are disrupted, and litter is left behind. Meanwhile, hotel owners complain they must follow strict conservation rules and pay high fees, while many Airbnbs avoid those costs—though they’re supposed to pay a 15% VAT.

The surge in visitors—now approaching 300,000 a year—has UNESCO urging “zero growth” in tourism. Yet Ecuador’s government recently dissolved its Ministry of Environment, merging it into Energy and Mines, a move that experts say reflects waning conservation priorities.

For locals, the debate is personal. Some see Airbnb as empowerment, putting income directly into community hands. Others worry the islands could become the next Venice—overrun by visitors and stripped of the magic that makes the Galápagos unique.

The islands now face a stark choice: how to balance income and survival in one of the world’s most fragile ecosystems.