Mexico City’s Tacos El Califa de León has become the first Mexican taco stand to earn a Michelin star, awarded by the renowned French restaurant guide. Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez, who operates the small, 3-meter by 3-meter stand, was honored by Michelin representatives but opted not to don the traditional white chef’s coat due to the intense heat from the grill.
El Califa de León has maintained a simple menu of just four types of tacos since opening in 1968. Rivera Martínez attributes their success to the simplicity and quality of their offerings, which consist solely of a tortilla, a choice of red or green sauce, and high-quality meat. He humorously suggests that Coke is the best drink to accompany his tacos.
The tiny taco stand, possibly the smallest restaurant to ever receive a Michelin star aside from a street food stand in Bangkok, operates with half its space occupied by a solid steel grill heated to 360°C. Rivera Martínez prepares fresh, thinly sliced beef on this grill thousands of times a day.
The prices at El Califa de León are relatively high for Mexico, with a single taco costing nearly $5, but the quality has earned it a loyal customer base. Alberto Muñoz, a regular for eight years, praises the consistent quality of the meat and is proud of the stand’s Michelin star recognition. His son, Alan, views the accolade as a historic moment for Mexican cuisine.
Owner Mario Hernández Alonso emphasizes that the key to their success is maintaining tradition, including the freshness of the tortillas and the unchanged menu. He remains secretive about their meat supplier and has no plans to add street-side seating despite new city regulations allowing it, preferring to keep the business as it is, in line with the saying, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
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